Exploring the Mountains of South Glen Shiel

The Saddle via The Forcan Ridge

I have now been hill walking and mountaineering for over 25 years and have completed some fantastic routes in the Alps as well as in the UK. I have also climbed Kilimanjaro twice and been to the top of the highest peaks in Borneo & Costa Rica. So why do I still get nervous about Scottish mountains in winter?



Nearing the summit of The Saddle

The answer could be just that I am a worrier but I think there is a little more to it than that. The Forcan Ridge is described as a grade 2 summer scramble and we would be doing it in winter conditions. It is an iconic route that I have wanted to do for years, yet on the day I was a little anxious. Scottish mountains are higher, more remote, involve longer walk-ins than the mountains in England & Wales and the scrambles seem to be so much harder than their equivalents in the rest of the UK. Nevertheless we set off at about 08:00 to complete a circuit which should take us 7 hours 40 minutes according to the guidebook.

Entering the hidden glen

As we wound our way into the secret glen behind Glen Shiel campsite we woke all the deer that were settled in the grass. It was a lovely view as more and more pairs of antlers stirred and sleepy deer slowly rose out of the grass. I wasn't sure whether I was happy or not that the hidden glen was flat. On the one hand it would be easy walking, on the other we would be gaining no height and we had to get to the summit of the Saddle, over 1000m high, from sea level. However it was a pleasant walk, skating on the frozen puddles, listening to the calls of the rampant frogs who were happy to get it on wherever there was water. Frogspawn could be found in even the tiniest of puddles on the path. Lets hope they can survive being frozen.



Looking up the valley towards the Forcan Ridge from the hidden glen

After 3km the valley splits around the great mass of Sgurr na Creige; we took a left turn, crossing the river at an old shieling. Now we started to climb, crossing many small tributaries as we headed ever upwards to the saddle between Meallan Odhar and Biod an Fhithich. We passed a gorgeous plunge pool that I vowed to come back to in warmer weather. Andy spoilt my plans by reminding me of the swarms of midges that would plague us there if we returned in the summer. After 3 hours we reached the saddle and a height of about 550m, just over half the height of the mountain we were climbing, also named The Saddle. We had a well-earned rest before joining the eroded path that takes the short route from the main road to The Forcan Ridge. It had taken us 3 hours to walk 9km and climb just under 600m. We met an energetic man coming down the path; he informed us that he had an early start and was on his way to the Lake District having already climbed The Saddle, albeit not by the Forcan Ridge.

Finally at the saddle between Meallan Odhar and the base of the Forcan Ridge

It wasn't long until we were at the base of the ridge and the start of the snow. We had seen an individual on the ridge as we approached and we had his footsteps to follow. There is an easy angled slab to climb at the start of the ridge which got us into the feel of things. Soon after the ridge narrowed and the snow firmed up. We decided to rope up and move together. Andy would lead off and wind the rope around rock spikes; I would move once the rope was tight between us. I had to be ever-ready to launch myself off the side of the mountain if Andy was to fall off on the opposite side. As long as the rope didn't shear through on the sharp ridge we should both be safe.



Looking up at the start of the ridge



On the start of the Forcan Ridge



If you have ever been the second person on a rope whilst moving together, you have probably had the same problems as I often come across. Andy will climb slowly over the more difficult obstacles; these are often followed by easier sections where he can move more quickly. By the time I reach the tricky sections Andy is inevitably on the easier sections and so I get pulled up the difficult climbs more quickly than I would like. He also winds the rope around spikes and pinnacles after he has climbed them. Therefore I am forced to climb under, around and over all sorts of obstacles just because that is where the rope goes.



Roped up traversing one of the flatter sections

Part way along the ridge I realised I was slightly nervous but far too busy climbing, feeding out rope and watching Andy to really worry. I was also pleasantly surprised that the Forcan Ridge is not as exposed as I had thought it would be. There is a path at the top of the corrie below and I reckoned I could escape the ridge  to it, down some of the many slopes present. A fall would probably still kill me though. Anyway I relaxed a little not having to worry about getting stuck on the ridge. The climbing was very enjoyable. There are some problematic moves, but as with a lot of climbing, once you have solved the problem the move is quite easy.

We had been on the ridge for a couple of hours when Andy sighed and I could tell by the tone that he was a little demoralised. The problem was how much of the ridge we still had left to go. We hadn't yet reached the abseil and the summit looked a long way away. I had already put my warm jacket on, we were moving so slowly that we were getting cold. There had been no sight of the guy in front of us for hours and it seemed to be getting dark.



Great scrambling

We made it to the abseil and went for it. From here it did look a little easier but still very steep. At the bottom of the abseil we saw that the guy in front of us had avoided the step on the left but Andy assured me it looked no easier. The ridge was proving tricky at times due to snow & ice filling the cracks and ledges that could be used in the summer. The snow was now hard packed and due to the weather being cooler today than of recent days there was a lot of ice on the ridge. At times we resorted to 'humping' along the crest of the ridge as this seemed the safest and easiest thing to do. I also used my knees far more than I would have liked, using the friction of my trousers to stick to the snow.



Winding the rope around the pinnacles

Finally we reached the summit of The Saddle; as it remained steep and narrow we remained roped up. From the summit the ridge continued still further along the narrow top, all the way to the next high point. We decided to remain roped up as by now it was about 5pm; we were tired and hungry and it would be all too easy to make a mistake in this state. Eventually our route flattened out and we had the most stunning views across what seemed to be the rest of Scotland, including all the highlands and islands. We could also see the remaining 11km of our walk back to the car. Other guidebooks chose not to follow the route that we did because the car is so far away once you reach the summit. Too right!

We had our lunch, a little late, glad to have finally completed the 'F***an Ridge', savoured the views and then started the long descent. The path was covered with snow but it was easy to find the best route down. Occasionally we would follow the footsteps in front of us. We wondered at what time the guy we were following made it back to his car. When we would lose his prints we wondered if he had made it at all. When his prints were accompanied by a dogs prints we wondered where on earth he had found it; or did he send it on an alternative route while he completed the ridge?

We've done it!

I was creeping ahead, desperate to find our route off the mountain before it went dark. This I did but I was not in time to actually find the zig-zagging path that I had spotted earlier. We were also below the snowline and so had no prints to follow. All we could do now was head straight down to the river and path below, in the dark. I prefer to walk without my torch. I get a better feel for the land and can see the most appropriate route avoiding any rocky outcrops and steeper slopes. Andy prefers to use his torch so he can place his feet well without going over on his weakened ankle. Together we made it to the stream, enjoyed a warm drink from our flasks, savoured a wine gum and moved off. The path was now easy to follow and we would soon be retracing our steps back into the campsite. Fourteen hours after starting we were back at the car. We have always taken guidebook times with a pinch of salt but this was way out. However, we had enjoyed a great day out on the hills, at a relaxed pace with plenty of tea breaks and time to take in the fantastic views and surrounding scenery.

Looking out west to the Small Isles

So was I right to be anxious? I don't think so. As routes go it was not difficult, nor scary, nor that exposed. It needs to be handled with care and I think we did the right thing by roping up. We could have done it without roping up but by doing so we both knew that we were safe. A simple slip could be the end of you. The route is thoroughly enjoyable and I know I would be more relaxed if I were to do it again. In summer I think it would be a doddle. All hand and footholds should be easily identifiable and apparently there is a path just below the crest where you can avoid most of the difficulties. Today this easier route was nowhere to be seen, covered by snow & ice. So I'm sure that Andy will agree, perhaps I am just a worrier after all.



A fantastic route