Paddling River Glass, September 2016

This is the perfect introduction to canoe expeditioning. A short, 2 day trip on easy water, close to the road but far enough away to feel wild and isolated. The water is no more than grade 1 but it is an interesting grade 1 with occasional shingle rapids and faster flowing water where tributaries join. The wildlife was diverse and varied and included Golden Eagle, Kingfisher, Sand Martins, Barn Owl, Red Deer, Red Squirrel and an Otter.

Shingle rapids on the upper section near Cannich

We had been planning to do coastal expeditions in our 16' open canoe but the weather forecasts further west were horrendous, however, towards Inverness the forecast was quite pleasant. Dry(ish), sunny, light winds; perfect. I had had my eye on this expedition from the 'Sottish Canoe Classics' book for a number of years and now we would give it a go.

Faster flow on the first day

We drove through an area new to us as we headed to the campsite at Cannich - Cannich Woodland Camping We arranged to leave the car here whilst on expedition and also made use of the on-site cafe before leaving. It was only a short carry/drag from the campsite across rough ground to get the boat in the river. We loaded up in the rain and set off with the flow, resting for a while under the shelter of the road bridge. The River Glass was soon joined by the Cannich and the flow increased slightly. Paddling was still required though to make decent headway downstream.

Our wild camp above the Sand Martin nests

The river meandered from one side of the flat-bottomed valley to the other, through fields of cows and sheep. We stopped for lunch, still in the rain, in one of the wider sections of the river. After lunch we continued downstream enjoying the slow pace of the river. I spotted a flash of blue; it was a Kingfisher hurrying away from us. Sand banks riddled with sand martin nests appeared and on top we spotted level ground, most importantly with short grass and no cows or sheep in this particular field. We climbed out and decided this would be a perfect place to camp. 

Brighter weather and flatter water on the second day

Although it was early we set up the shelter and the tent, deciding to relax and enjoy the afternoon, knowing there wasn't far to go tomorrow. We sat under the shelter watching the Sand Martins flitting about chasing flies. As dusk approached we caught sight of a Golden Eagle soaring over the craggy ridge to the west. We also glimpsed the silhouetted shapes of red deer as they grazed on the crest of the ridge. Daylight faded further and an owl called and flew out of the woods, crossing the river towards us. Looking east there were few lights on the roads and the few houses there had bright lights on throughout the night. Almost hidden in the woods was a Hobbit house; built of logs and with a roof made of turf.

Entering the stunning Aigas Gorge

The morning dawned damp but calm, however the forecast was for it to improve. We packed up and set off drifting slowly downstream. It wasn't long before we spotted a disturbance in the water ahead. We stopped still. It was a small otter; wary of us but not concerned. We became silent, frozen in our boat as we drifted with the water. Becoming no more than an inanimate object, the otter seemed oblivious to us. It carried on swimming and diving upstream as we continued on down. The current began to slow as the effects of the HEP dam further downstream were felt. We ate lunch as we floated slowly downstream; a ghillie drove a small boat, powererd by an electric motor, upstream. In the boat were 3 wetsuited swimmers making the most of this slow-flowing river looking for a bit of wild swimming. We also passed a rower, also heading upstream.

Beautifully calm as we wwtched the wildlife within the gorge

We continued on down, passing around Eileanaigas, an island with a grand house. It is here that we entered the most stunning, rocky gorge, the Aigas Gorge. The walls were vertical and high, either side of the now, very slow-flowing river Glas. As we ceased paddling to take in the splendour of the gorge we floated down as if in some beautiful, peaceful theme park ride. We spotted a red squirrel balancing along boughs, overhanging the river; jumping skillfully from tree to tree. With the dam not far downstream we were able to paddle easily upstream on the other side of the island to take a peek at the bridge joining the island to the river bank and getting a glimpse of Eileanglas House.

Time to put our feet up and take in the surroundings

It wasn't much further until our take out at the HEP station where Andy got on his bike to ride the 11 miles back to the campsite to pick up the car and return for me and our kit. The journey can be carried on to the sea at Beauly but unfortunately an intermediate section between 2 HEP dams needs to be portaged.