Cycling Bangor to Cardiff

Sustrans Route 8, Lon Las Cymru

It's that time of year again; Andy & I are off on a cycling tour. Once again, we're following a Sustrans National Cycle Route, this time Route 8. The full route goes from Holyhead to Cardiff Bay but we skipped Anglesey and started in Bangor. We chose to go north to south purely because of the availability of our accommodation, however, this turned out to be the best direction to cycle this route. Day 3 had 2 long climbs but we then benefitted from this over the 4 days afterwards, trending downhill for over 150 miles. During hot weather, the prevailing southerly winds also provide a refreshing headwind.

Looking back towards the hills above Dolgellau and Arthog

The route visits 2 of the 3 National Parks found in Wales, Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons. The hills of mid-Wales are just as, if not more beautiful than those found in either of the National Parks. Maybe, because they are not in a National Park, the area has far fewer visitors. Route 8 also visits 4 of Wales' great rivers; the Severn, Wye, Usk and the Taff. 

Cycling along the River Wye

We stayed in bunkhouses and youth hostels and were pleasantly surprised with the high standard of accommodation and the friendly welcome we received at every place. The route winds its way through towns and villages providing plenty of opportunities to stock up on supplies, or treat ourselves at a cafe. We rode our mountain bikes with semi-slick tyres. We took the route 82 variation between Barmouth and Machynlleth, with the 'shortcut' missing out Dolgellau. I wouldn't recommend route 82 if you're on a road bike. 

Day 1 Bangor to Caernarfon (12 miles)

A short day to start, following our train journey from home. I recommend looking at splitting the train tickets to get the best price. The best prices don't appear until at least 6 weeks before the date of travel. There are only 2 bike spaces on the welsh trains, which you need to book. However, it seems the guards are happy to allow additional bikes.

Approaching Caernarfon alongside the Menai Strait

The route follows roads to climb out of Bangor, with designated cycle paths beside the fast, main roads. However, it is not long before we were cycling on the designated, traffic-free, cycle route which closely follows the Menai Strait to Caernarfon. 

We stayed at Trotters Independent Hostel, just inside the ancient town walls and next door to a bike service shop, should you need it. We had the double, en-suite room. Complete luxury; breakfast and sea view included. We walked a hundred metres or so, for a lovely evening meal at the bustling pub The Black Boy Inn where we had a great meal with super-quick service despite the crowds.

Day 2 Caernarfon to Criccieth (27 miles)

From Caernarfon we cut across the Llyn Peninsula enjoying beautiful and varied, rural countryside. Starting once again, alongside the Menai Strait, we soon headed into the woods, following the Welsh Highland Railway and the designated cycle trail -Lon Eifion. It was a slightly damp day and we were thankful to have the shelter of the trees. The birdlife and flora were interesting, brightening up an otherwise dull day.

Following the Welsh Highland Railway

We stopped in Penygroes, at a local cafe for a bacon bap and a slice of cake, along with Andy's essential coffee and my hot chocolate. Great service at local prices. From here the route opened up, along with the views. Lon Eifion ends at Brycir and from here we followed quiet lanes, undulating through rural north Wales. We stopped at David Lloyd George's grave at Llanystumdwy before descending into Criccieth. We found supplies at Criccieth and then climbed away from the coast, back towards southern Snowdonia and our hostel for the night, Cwm Pennant. Unfortunately Cwm Pennant will shortly be closing its doors to the public. This interesting old building had previously been a rope making factory.

Heading back towards southern Snowdonia

Day 3 Criccieth to Barmouth (32 miles)

Looking down towards Tremadog

Cwm Pennant had only been a couple of miles off our route. We soon climbed back onto the quiet country lanes of Route 8 heading towards Tremadog and later Porthmadoc. The route follows a lovely, wooded, off-road route into Tremadog. In Porthmadoc the Sustrans signs weren't great, and we lost our way for a short while before finding The Cob, the causeway that crosses the estuary. After crossing the second arm of the estuary, we climbed high, back into the hills and rural countryside. Ahead of us was a steep and winding lane, our route to nearly 300m high. We stopped to refuel, and to let the sheep pass, before climbing steadily. The views got better with height; we watched the clouds build as the breeze hit the Llyn Peninsula.

Off-roading above Tremadog

Meeting the locals

It was a short, steep descent into Harlech where we stopped for lunch as the rain ceased and the sun came out. From Harlech we had a few more hills to climb before reaching the lovely sandy beaches and the approach to Barmouth. Our accommodation at Bunkorama, Barmouth was a cosy bunkhouse with fantastic views over the coast. The downside is it is a mile out of town, straight uphill. We bought our supplies and headed up for the night.

The climb away from Tremadog

The lounge / kitchen / dining room at Bunkorama

Day 4 Barmouth to Hafren Forest (49 miles)

We could see the start of our route from the bunkhouse; its head still in the clouds. As we enjoyed the free-wheel back towards Barmouth the clouds lifted. We cycled across the pedestrian / cycle bridge as the sun came out. The incoming tide flooded the estuary with a deep, shimmering blue, contrasting with the lush greenery and light blue sky.

The weather is improving (at Barmouth)

The long climb above Arthog (first of 2 today)

Today would be a long day so we skipped Dolgellau and chose (what we thought was) the shorter and less hilly route to Maccynlleth, via the twin lakes above Arthog. We climbed slowly (very slowly) from sea level up to nearly 300m at the lakes. We stopped to enjoy the views towards Cadair Idris before continuing our climb, on and off-road to 400m high. The climb was long, tough and slow but the upside was a glorious descent, on tarmac towards Tywyn and down to sea level once again. The route takes a detour up the beautiful Dysynni valley towards the imposing Bird's Rock. A little road riding brought us into the coastal town of Tywyn where we stopped for lunch beside the sea.

Descending into Dysynni Valley

Lunch at Tywywn

From here we climbed 'Happy Valley', up and over to Machynlleth, the  ancient capital of Wales. We would have loved to explore but we still had a way to go to our accommodation and tonight's bunkhouse was providing dinner, so we had to get a move on. We refuelled and rehydrated with lucozade and left the sea for the last time.

Happy Valley

We had known about the climb above Arthog but signs warning us of the icy, wet and downright dangerous 'Mountain Road' were unexpected. Over 12km we climbed from sea level to 500m. We stopped (often) to admire the last views into Snowdonia before becoming immersed in the hills of mid-Wales. The descent was short but enjoyable. We were yet to find out that this climb had given us the height to ride predominantly downhill for the remainder of the trip.

The long climb to over 500m on the Mountain Road

We arrived at Hafren Forest Bunkhouse to a warm welcome, a warm (or cold) drink and a comfortable home for the night. Dinner was a tasty, freshly made Bolognese with a trifle for dessert.

A relief to finally reach our accommodation

Day 5 Hafren Forest to Rhayder (28 miles)

A relatively short day. We wound our way through Hafren Forest before following the Severn downhill from just below its source. We hopped valleys (climbing up and over the watershed), stopping for lunch at Llangurig before winding our way along quiet country lanes, beside the upper reaches of the Wye, into Rhayader.

Through the forest close to the source of the River severn

Close to the River Wye

We resupplied and made our way gently uphill to our accommodation for the night at Beili Neuadd Bunkhouse. We had the place to ourselves and were spoilt in this luxurious, converted barn.

Leaving Beili Neuadd

Day 6 Rhayader to Talybont-on-Usk (61 miles)

The longest day of the trip. We started early, enjoying the gentle descent into Rhayader. From here we continued to follow the Wye downstream to Newbridge and then Builth Wells. We had on and off-road, open views and enclosed country lanes. The route passes through Builth Wells where we stopped beside the Wye for lunch. From here the route follows quite a busy road until it drops off onto a quiet lane into Glasbury. There are cafes and accommodation at Glasbury but we continued onwards.

Lunch beside the river at Builth Wells

Cafe stop at Glasbury

The route climbs out of Glasbury and undulates pleasantly towards Brecon. From Brecon it largely follows the canal towpath alongside the Monmouthsire and Brecon Canal. Just before Talybont-on-Usk the route leaves the canal and climbs into the Aber Valley towards the Talybont Reservoir.

Climbing out of Glasbury

The Black Mountains

The towpath heading towards Talybont

We had a late finish, arriving at YHA Danywenallt at 7pm. Thankfully dinner had ben postponed until 19:30.

Talybont Reservoir

Day 7 Talybont to Nant Ddu (24 miles)

We climbed the forest track high above the reservoir, taking the incline in our stride. We went off route for a cafe stop and then climbed once again into the woods, on good forestry tracks, this time above Pontiscill Reservoir. We then joined the old railway for a free-wheeling descent into Methyr Tydfil.

Climbing above Talybont Reservoir

Still climbing...

Climbing some more, this time above Pontiscill Reservoir

Our accommodation was slightly off Route 8, up in Nant Ddu. We thought we would continue to follow the Taff Trail, this time away from Merthyr, towards our accommodation. Although well-signposted at times, at others both the sign-posts and the track were nearly non-existent. Most of the track is apparently a bridleway but it is difficult for bikes (and I imagine horses) to navigate.

The start of a long free-wheel towards Merthyr Tydfil

A bridleway apparently...

We stopped at the visitor centre at the head of the Llwyn-onn Reservoir for lunch before finding our way to our bunkhouse a little further up the valley. It was worth the effort! A twin, en-suite room to ourselves at Coed Owen Bunkhouse.

Our lovely room at Coed Owen Bunkhouse

Day 8 Nant Ddu to Cardiff (42 miles)

We chose not to retrace our steps to Route 8 but follow the busy A road instead. We were back at the viaduct at Cefn-Coed in no time. From here we continued to cycle easily downhill alongside the River Usk and the neglected canal. We were still at over 200m altitude and with a finish at sea level it would be another easy day.

Not the most picturesque but lots of history

Some of the route was on the edge of towns and not the most salubrious of cycle routes. We bought lunch in Pontypridd, eating it in the rain, in the park, before noticing there was in fact a cafe in the park. Soon after Pontypridd the Taff trail finds the river and the route once again feels rural and green. It follows the Taff all the way into Cardiff, staying off roads until you eventually reach Cardiff Bay.

Beside the River Taff

We had had a long and wet day so didn't stop to explore Cardiff, or even go over the barrage. Instead we headed straight to Cardiff City Youth Hostel where we had a private, double, en-suite room. We could have taken our bikes into our room but instead opted to leave them in the secure luggage store. With our kit out to dry, we showered and put on some relatively clean clothes before walking into Cardiff for a celebratory meal.

We've made it to cardiff

The final day was a simple train journey back to Buxton via Stockport.

Sustrans claim this route as one of the toughest on the National Cycle Network. I'm not sure I would agree. The way we split the route meant we had one, long, tough day. But,as I mentioned we benefitted from this for the remaining 4 days. I think the route would be a lot tougher if followed from south to north. Also, we didn't complete the whole route.

The middle section, in particular, is spectacular. Views are varied and the ride is interesting. I would recommend the route. It is easy to follow, especially if you have the cycle route on an electronic device. As usual, Sustrans have signposted the route well; inconspicuous but obvious if you know when and where to look. Navigation through towns is more difficult and this is where the signposting does tend to get damaged, turned or removed altogether.

The River Wye

A super route with fantastic, great value accommodation along the way.

We're active and outdoorsy but not exceptionally fit. We love going on expeditions, whatever form of transport we choose to use.

Gentle Rides in the Peak District - Book

If you enjoy non-technical, off-road rides, like to avoid the mud, don't mind joining the off-road bits with quiet country lanes and are thinking of cycling in  the Peak District, you might enjoy the rides in my book.