Despite the many tourists, it is easy to find peace and solitude.
To make the most of the varied weather forecast we went equipped for different activities. We took the canoe, climbing kit and our walking boots. Over 6 days, 3 days canoeing, 1 mountain climb and 1 hill walk; we saw less than 20 people.
We canoed in three different sea lochs, exploring geology and archaeology. We saw porpoises, seals, White-tailed and Golden Eagles. We paddled at different times of day to make the most of the weather and tides. With a little knowledge and experience it can be safe to take an open canoe out at sea.
Again, watching the weather forecasts carefully, we had a wonderful day climbing Bla Bheinn. It is the only Munro on Skye, outside of the main Cuillin Ridge. There are many exciting routes up the mountain but thankfully also a couple of easier walks, achievable by any competent hill walker with a head for heights. The walk picks it’s way through rocky terrain and reaches the summit easily.
As we set off the summit was in the cloud. There were a few rain showers but we were confident with the forecast, that the top would be clear by 2pm. As we climbed the clouds teased us, rising and falling around us. Nearing the top the views east opened up, revealing Lochs Hourn and Nevis. The mountains beyond framed the skyline and Plockton could be seen basking in the sunshine. On cue, the clouds rose with us as we topped out at 928m, at 13:46 and had views towards the Small Isles. Unfortunately, the views north to Loch Coruisk and the Cuillin were completely socked in.
We explored Loch Bracadale late one afternoon. The southerly winds were dropping throughout the afternoon and would continue to do so through the night. The tide was on its way in and the sun was out. With tide and wind together, the sea was fairly gentle, however, the swell was hitting exposed shorelines with some force. We kept away from the rocks and found shelter on the inland sides of the islands.
We landed on a pristine beach and explored Hornish Island. We crossed to Turner Island, a couple of kilometres of open sea, heading towards caves and stacks. We were welcomed by a friendly seal colony who kindly escorted us back into the open sea, away from their territory. Two White-tailed Eagles also seemed to take exception to our presence and flew off out to sea.
As promised, the wind was easing but there was still a gentle swell coming in from the west. We kept well offshore as we paddled back towards Hornish Island. After about 4km we turned inland and with the wind and tide behind us, we had a glorious sail back to the car. The sea was nearly flat by now and I was almost tempted to head straight back out. Instead we went home ,watched the sunset, soon followed by a pale green aurora, a result of a major solar substorm, all from our bedroom window. We stayed in Shiant; an old croft with views over Loch Greshornish. Thanks to Glendale Sky Aurora for the alert.
As long as you're prepared to stray away from your car, the Isle of Skye is a wonderful, wild island with so much to explore. Be flexible, take heed of the weather forecasts and exploration can be done day, or night.
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