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Tarbert to Carradale |
We found the route got better and better, especially once we left the Great Glen and got to explore the Kintyre peninsula. The landscape felt wilder and the views were ever more spectacular. It may have helped that the weather improved too!
Day 1 Inverness to Fort Augustus, 35 miles
We stayed at Inverness YHA, under half a mile from the station. It is comfortable and in a quiet area yet still only 10 mins walk into city centre.
The route starts tantalisingly close to the River Ness but on a residential road with the view hidden by trees and buildings. The route leaves the main road at Scanport to make use of a quiet country lane which drops into Dores. From Dores the route follows the shores of Loch Ness on a single track, largely level lane. Unfortunately, this lane was pretty busy with both cars and campervans. The lane is tree lined and pretty sheltered from the prevailing wind but there are numerous lay-bys where the loch shore can easily be reached on foot.
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The road to Fores |
About halfway down the loch is Foyers with a side turning down to a large campsite and holiday lodges (possibly where all the motorhomes were heading). Soon after the turning there is a shop and cafe and half a mile further on is a farm shop and another cafe. The route undulates now, which is frustrating as there is a climb up to 393 metres and each descent feels like a wasted effort. However, the scenery is beautiful and you feel quite remote. Thankfully the road seems quieter now, certainly we had very few, if any campervans. There is a bar on the way at White Bridge; we chose not to stop, knowing the biggest climb of the day was still ahead of us. As the road bends left after the pub, the tarmac leads into the distance, all the way to the summit about 4 miles away. The good news is the climb is gentle and the views from the top are stunning; we stopped for a while to take them in.
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The long climb to Suidhe Chuimen (393m) |
The descent is wonderful, passing a pretty loch on the way. There are many off-road alternatives from before Foyers to Fort Augustus. We only noticed these on the final descent to Fort Augustus and chose to take the gravel track as it winded away from the road (crossing it once) into Fort Augustus. Once in Fort Augustus we crossed the canal, then the river and took the left turn up to the lovely Morag’s Lodge, an independent hostel. Home cooked dinners are served, along with a cooked breakfast. There is also a bar and secure cycle storage.
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One of the off-road options descending to Fort Augustus |
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The head of Loch Ness at Fort Augustus |
Day 2 Fort Augustus to Corran, 45 miles
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Leaving Fort Augustus |
This section continues to follow the Great Glen. It starts off between the canal and the river and, as can be expected, it is pretty flat, with a good surface. As Loch Oich is reached, the route follows a disused railway along the shores of the loch. Again, the route is through the trees and fairly sheltered from the south-westerly wind. Being a disused railway, it is flat. At North Laggan the route no longer follows the railway and starts with a short, sharp uphill, following a rough track as it heads into a forest to follow the shores of Loch Lochy. This route is interesting as it winds along, gently undulating. There are some good viewpoints along the way and we found a little wooden shelter, perfect for lunch.
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The disused railway beside Loch Oich |
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Alongside the canal once again |
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The woodland above Loch Lochy |
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Recent forestry works |
At Clunes the route joins a quiet road, following this to Gairlochy. From Gairlochy the route once again follows the track beside the canal, all the way to Caol on the outskirts of Fort William, where the route follows quiet residential roads into Fort William. We took the passenger ferry across the loch, to complete the last 10 miles or so to the Corran ferry, on the quiet side of the loch. This passenger ferry only runs 4 or 5 times a day; we arrived at 3:15 and the next one was at 4:15, giving us enough time for a drink and slice of cake in Fort William.
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On the quiet side of Loch Linhe
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On the other side of the loch, the lane is fairly level, with just a few ups and downs. It is also quite sheltered from the wind except when crossing open valleys. We arrived at Corran at the same time as the ferry, perfectly timed to cross to our finish point at the luxurious Corran Bunkhouse. The ferry runs every 15-20 minutes during the day and 30 minutes in the evening. Cyclists and pedestrians travel for free and so it is no bother to nip across to the pub, however, we cooked the food we had bought in Fort William for our well-earned tea.
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The Corran Ferry |
Day 3 Corran to Oban, 45 miles
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Beside the main road |
The route starts following the busy main road from Fort William to Glencoe, on a shared path. It was a wet morning and the spray, along with the noise of the vehicles passing close by, made this section unpleasant. However, not long after crossing the bridge at Ballachulish the route transfers onto a disused railway line. The line is close to the shore and also the road. There are a couple of nice sections, both with a short climb, then descent, through a wilder landscape. The first skirts around Duror, the second through a lovely nature reserve near Keil.
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Crossing the bridge at Ballachulish |
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Beside the seaside, beside the sea |
We added 5 or 6 miles by taking the Appin loop which was well worth the effort. This loop is a quiet and pleasant respite from the noise of the main road. We followed the road a few hundred metres beyond the loop, to Port Appin where we bought lunch and a hot drink from the little shops; sitting on the picnic benches, looking out to sea. There are public toilets just down the road by the Pier Hotel which serves a wide range of food and drink. The loop back to the main road undulates through beautiful countryside.
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A disused railway once again |
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A nice detour away from the road |
Once back on the main road, the route crosses a bridge and follows the disused railway once again. Once over Connel Bridge, which crosses Lich Etive and the Falls if Lora (if the tide is falling) the route follows a quiet, rural lane through grazed farmland and isolated houses. The route undulates before a right turn that climbs steadily before dropping into Oban. We stayed at Oban YHA and had chips for tea. Thankfully, the drying room was open as we had got quite wet in the last hour or so of the ride.
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Pedalling through the nature reserve |
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Back beside the main road after the Appin loop |
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Arriving in Oban |
Day 4, Oban to Torran Bay Hostel, 35 miles
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The gentle ascent out of Oban |
The route starts with the climb (descent from yesterday) to the road junction, which was not as bad as expected. Another, lovely, rural valley is followed to Taynult, close to the shore of Loch Etive, with a few Highland cows on the route. There is a lovely descent to Taynult which feels undeserved as there was very little climbing beforehand. There is a grocers in Taynult and cafe which is closed on Mondays (we were there on a Monday).
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The quiet road to Taynult
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The inquisitive locals
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From Taynult, the main road is taken for a short while, before turning right onto another lane climbing up towards Kilchrenan. This road is single track and was surprisingly busy with traffic. We stopped at the Inn at Kilchrenan for a second lunch before bearing right to take the quiet road alongside Loch Awe. Views of the loch are few and far between unfortunately. There are a couple of off-road alternatives which travel close to the loch shore but are quite rough (not signposted). The second option finishes with a steady 1km climb back up to the road.
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We can almost see the tops of the hills as we descend towards Loch Awe |
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Enjoying the descent |
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One of the optional off-road sections |
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A minor obstruction |
Once on the road, there is a further climb before a descent to the loch at Torran Bay and our hostel for the night.
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Final bit of road riding to Torran Bay |
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Torran Bay Hostel |
Day 5 Torran Bay to Inverneil 28 miles
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Carnasserie Castle |
A short day where we took the time to look at old stuff at Kilmartin, including Carnasserie Castle. The road winds pleasantly down from Torran Bay to Ford and then continues generally downhill to the castle. From here a rough track can be followed towards Kilmartin. This undulates gently and skirts around a quarry before there is a finger post pointing the way for the optional detour to Kilmartin. There is a pub and museum / cafe here. It was too early for our lunch so we continued on a quiet lane, passing stone circles and chambered cairns, before crossing the expanse of Moine Mhor. The road is flat and level here, crossing the naturally and archaeological important wetlands.
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The rough alternative towards Kilmartin |
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A stone circle |
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On another canal towpath |
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Crinan |
We soon reached the tidal river and Crinan Canal. We detoured to Crinan and had a disappointing lunch sitting outside at the café. We then retraced our track and continued along the canal to Lichgilphead where we bought some supplies. We continued to Ardrishaig for an all day breakfast. From here we took the alternative, rough track to Inverneil which is quite narrow in places, with some short, steep ascents and descents. It was also quite midgey amongst the vegetation. Just as you think you're descending to Inverneil, there is an unexpected right turn and a steep climb. However, from the summit the track winds down around a farm to the road. It was then a short descent and section of main road to the cosy Argyll Backpackers at Inverneil.
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Heading to Ardishaig |
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The off-road option between Ardrishaig and Inverneil |
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The unexpected climb! |
Day 6 Inverneil to Tarbert, 30 miles
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Leaving Tarbert in the sunshine |
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The climb to cross over the Kintyre peninsula |
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And now the descent... |
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On the western shores |
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Views to Islay and Jura |
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And south to Gigha |
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Rounding the corner to head east |
We climbed steadily away from Loch Fyne, passing a freshwater loch before a glorious descent to Loch Caolisport on the western shores of the Kintyre peninsula and its sandy beaches. From the road we had clear views of Jura and Islay in the north-west and Gigha in the south. The road gently undulates, passing the odd, isolated house. At lunchtime we were passing Port Ban Caravan Park at with its café, shop and numerous palm trees, perfectly placed for a bite to eat. It isn’t long before the road bends eastwards, heading through the woodland along the side of West Loch Tarbert and into the town of Tarbert, back on the west shoe of Loch Fyne once again. Cycling 3 sides of a square today meant that at some point we were bound to have a tail wind unless we were really unlucky.
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On the final leg towards Tarbert |
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Beautiful Tarbert |
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Views across Loch Fyne from outside our B&B |
Day 7 Tarbert to Carradale, 22 miles
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Sunrise at Tarbert |
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Leaving Tarbert
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Unfortunately, the route follows the main road from Tarbert until the turn off to Claonaig on a single-track road. This side road was quite busy; maybe down to traffic driving to the ferry to Arran. However, after turning right alongside Kilbrannan Sound, most of the vehicles had disappeared. The views across to Arran were stunning; the sea turquoise and tranquil. The road undulates before dropping down towards Carradale which can be seen on the headland in the distance. The last few miles follow a stream, beneath trees with views to the Alpine like valleys inland.
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Arran coming into view |
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Gorgeous views all day today! |
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A few ups and downs |
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It is worth stopping occasionally |
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The quiet road beside Kibrannan Sound |
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The last stretch to Carradale goes inland through wooded valleys |
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The beach at Port Righ, Carradale |
Carradale is a lovely place to stop. There is a small fishing harbour and 2 wonderful beaches, both sheltered on the eastern side of the Kintyre peninsula. We stayed at Ashbank Hotel and I asked where the centre was; not realising the small hostelry was the focal point of the village. There are 2 hotel / restaurants a couple of miles apart, along with a cafe and bike hire / repair shop. Other than that, there is little else apart from peace, solitude and stunning scenery. It is well worth stopping to explore.
Day 8 Carradale to Campbeltown, 20 miles
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Gorgeous views once again |
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One last look at Port Righ |
This is a surprisingly hilly road, a look at the OS map shows the gradients, both up and down, as the route crosses the many streams flowing from the hills. All are rideable though. Whilst on the high ground, the views across to Arran and now Ailsa Craig continue; we were lucky with clear skies and calm seas. Unusually, we also had a tail wind from the north. We stopped at Sandell to explore the Abbey and then the beach with its statue. Soon after, we passed cyclists with panniers, travelling in the other direction, most already walking. We hoped they had enough energy to get them wherever they were going and that they hadn’t bitten off more than they could chew.
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On a downhill |
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You have to pause for a while |
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Approaching Campbeltown |
Eventually a climb brings you to the final summit before the descent as you turn towards Campbeltown. We stayed 3 miles out of town at Oatfield Country House B&B. Although the traffic on the road out of Campbeltown seemed to have the most aggressive drivers of the whole trip, it was lovely to see the countryside and get views once again out to the west, towards Jura and Islay. We cycled back into Campbeltown for dinner before enjoying the evening at our B&B where we had an early night in preparation for our 5:15 wake up, to get the ferry to Ardrossan!
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We've done it! |
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Island Davaar |
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Campbeltown |
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Oatfield House B&B
Gentle Rides in the Peak District - Book
If you enjoy non-technical, off-road rides, like to avoid the mud, don't mind joining the off-road bits with quiet country lanes and are thinking of cycling in the Peak District, you might enjoy the rides in my book. Notes on travelling by train
We originally planned to drive to and from Inverness from our home in Derbyshire, wrongly assuming that the trains would be expensive and awkward. Thankfully, I checked the trains out and booked the trains to inverness for about £60 for the 2 of us. The return journey was a bit more problematic as the Campbeltown to Ardrossan ferry had been taken out of action. However, I bought tickets and gambled on it being back in action in time for our return. A week before our journey began, it was running as it should. I checked the trains and there was a lot more availability than previously and at a similar price to our outward journey.
If you travel by train, make sure you reserve the bike spaces when booking the tickets. This proved problematic as bike spaces are only available to reserve on some legs of the journey. Therefore, when trying to book the whole journey in one go, online, I couldn’t reserve ANY bike spaces. If I tried to buy the legs independently the price increased. The solution was to check each of the relevant legs for bike spaces, ensuring the price was also reasonable, before phoning up the booking office and asking them to book the whole route, at the best price and reserve any bike spaces. I did this through Scotrail, who were super friendly. The next issue was when I picked the tickets up at my local station, there were 2 tickets missing. This is hard to spot when you get so many coupons for one journey (20 in all). However, Scotrail sorted this for me when I eventually got through to them on the phone, arranging for me to pick up replacement tickets on arrival at Inverness. |
Thanks for this. Really informative.
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